Wow, people are waking up really early. You can hear movement at 4.30 am and then they are out the door at 5 am. How do I know? Well these peregrinos are so focused on getting out the door that they let it slam behind them. I’m sure they don’t mean to wake every body else up. Probably think they are doing us a favour by helping get us lazy bones up. Thanks guys. Love you too! 

Nevertheless, I stubbornly cling on to some semblance of dignity and finally rouse about 6.30 am. As I peer around the place, half the room’s gone. 

Actually, this is quite a blessing. The toilets and sinks are relatively free and I go about my morning business. I’ve decided to walk a short distance to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos on account of my blister underfoot. It’s about 13 km. usually my blister starts complaining at about 12 km, so I should be fine. 

I stopped by a lovely cafe and breakfast was a cafe con leche and custard pastry.


As I walk out of town, 2 pilgrims walk up chatting. They are in pace with me and I can hear every word. I think they think I can’t understand English. I become uncomfortable at eavesdropping, though I really was not dropping no eaves if eaves were being dropped within earshot of me. I introduce myself to Panthea from Canada and Sean / Shaun from Ireland. I am walking well and even surprising to me, rather fast. Trouble comes are the splitting of the way to Reliegios. Alas, chatting away, I take the Real Camino Frances instead of the Roman Way. I have walked a km and a half before I realise. I’m determined to go to Calzadilla so I say goodbye to Sean and backtrack. I’m so far off the turn off. Wow! I’m walking faster than I had thought, I hope my blister is ok for the extra 3 km walk.

On the way back, I meet Joan and David, the Scottish couple. I first met them at La Casa Magica in Villatuerta and every so often in the intervening weeks, we’ve bumped into each other. We chat a but and Juan asks about my blister. She chides me for using the spanish method. I tell her it’s done. It’s a new blister I’m dealing with. We chat amiably but I can see David is anxious to press on as am I.

The Roman route after the town of Calzada de Coto is very lonely. I had expected a cafe con leche but nothing is open. I walk alone for miles. No one in front of me. No one behind. In fact, there are no signs for a long while and I begin to feel worried. Yikes. I could disappear and no one would know. Imagination takes over. Then I’m grateful I have my walking app. If I disappear, at least they can do a GPS fix in my last location before the battery runs out.

Such imagination. The late morning sun is setting in and the birds are quietening down. I suddenly feel a need to play my audio book. Steven Covey’s Seven Habits. I listen as I walk. 

The way is beautiful in a remote and desolate way. But there is no where to sit and rest. I feel energetic. So I keep going for the 13 km and the extra 3 km. Soon I feel the niggling, unsettling sensation of my blister. It reminds me that my feet is not 100%. It makes me worried that it is not going away. 

I arrive at Albergue Via Trajana as the sun rises high in the sky. I am glad. I stop into wonderful smells rising from the kitchen. A lady with a kind face appears. I tell her I need a bed. She says they are full. I immediately interject to say I had reserved a bed. I don’t enjoy this reserving ahead. But if I don’t, I don’t get into the places I want to stay. I do make an effort to get to the place I want to stay early. 

The albergue is lively, like staying in someone’s home. I share the room with 3 Taiwanese – Paul, Kay, and ah lu. The last the nick name of an aunt that we don’t get along. But I don’t hold it against her. They are walking the camino for the second time for the married couple, and for the first time for Ah Lu. Kay hurt her knee in Roncevalles and she now uses luggage transport to help her journey along. 

The others in the dining room I met were a French couple, a Canadian and Slovenian. All their names now escapes me. Dinner was nicely cooked even if it is the same types of food. Perhaps one day the food on the camino will be more adventurous.

Menu peregrino. First plato always this: vegetable stew, garlic soup (grosse), R salads mixtape, bean soup, spaghetti. Second plato: pork (dry), beef (flash fried), spaghetti,… Dessert: creme caramel, milk curd, rice pudding, ice cream. After 3 and a half weeks, boring, boring, boring.