I am going to have to do this post without any photos. The wifi connection here at this Albergue is very weak.
Basically, I spent much of the day walking alone. Altogether, I did 24 km. I could not wait to leave the Danto Domingo donativo albergue in the morning. It still took me an hour to get all my bits and pieces together. After stopping for a cafe con leche, I left town. I bumped into Patrick and Kim but due to feet issues, their plan was to stay in Granon, which is a walk of 7 km. I went on ahead but stopped in the town to have one last coffee. I didn’t feel like bocadillos and so did not eat. Big mistake. I was to be so very hungry for the rest of the day – almost the point of exhaustion.
We had our last cafe con leche together and said our goodbyes. I saw Sherry and Bob but said I’d walk in ahead as I knew they’d catch up soon enough. And so just out of town, Sherr Bob and I walked together through the town of Redicilla … for an hour. And then their pace took them away. I pretty much walked the rest of the day alone, saying “Buen camino” to all the pilgrims who walked past me. Through town after town, there were no bars open. No lunch. Suddenly I found myself pulling out my orange and peeling it. I figured it would give me a lot of good energy, which it did. There were very few places one could stop along the way. No benches to rest on. Thankfully, the day was very cloudy. The spanish sun can be very draining but not today.
I shuffled my way into Belorado. I had to walk another 2 km to get right into town where our albergue was. This is where Sylvia said to meet. The Cuatro Cantones is a very nice albergue, and restaurant. I highly recommend it. There’s a kitchen if you fancy cooking. I was too tired, the supermercado too far and a grande blister to think about instead of cooking. I’m now ok with 18 to 20 km days, but 24 km plus days wear me out completely.
I had such a nice shower, and did a quick wash of my clothes. Though it was a cloudy day, I still stank a lot. It was one of my clothes that is not merino wool so air drying it would not do the trick. So I had to do hand washing. With the breeze blowing about, it dried quite quickly.
I was so hungry I nearly fainted. Thank goodness for their restaurant. Amongst the menu items was chicken wings – my favourite! What a wonderful treat and comfort food. They were so sweet too not to kick this smelly and sweaty Perdon out of their restaurant. Overall, a really nice place to stay.
Sylvia and I went in search of a supermercado. It wasn’t far but it took some time to find it. I stocked up on more food and resupplied my first aid kit with more plasters for my blister. Then a quick trip to church for mass.
It was my first mass since Roncevalles. The only person serving in the mass was the priest. He was the deacon, the altar boy, choir and priest. The pomp and ceremony of Catholic masses were toned down. Church congregation had good numbers though this could just be peregrinos rather than locals. The church was in a bit of a sad state with a large crack in the dome above the altar, that was going to have to get dealt with at some point.
Altogether in weeks 1 and 2, I have walked approximately 400,000 steps. As of today, we’ve walked about 280 km since St Jean. Am feeling quite amazed at that feat.