Steps: 29100

Distance: 22 km

Walking time: 7 hours 


Lunch: €4

Accommodation: €11

Dinner: €11

Daily total: €26

I have decided to take a different tack with my blogging. Basically because I am not getting reliable wifi to post words, much less photos. (In fact, I have been very unsuccessful with photos.) Besides, each day I am finding myself a little too tired for reflective thinking. Sometimes, so much has happened in the day that I trouble separating what to write. Sometimes I actually manage to write something decent, only to lose it because wifi dropped out, or something like that. I will back track. Tonight, the wifi in this albergue seems good.

The last 2 days have been quite good. I’ve been doing 18 to 20 km days. My blister feels better. It is not gone but the pressure feels less intense. I’ve stopped at Cirauqui, having travelled from Uterga. Uterga is the first town after Alto Del Perdon. 

The albergue Albergue Del Perdon is nice. Stop here for food, or to stay overnight. The place is clean and the showers are hot.

I did have an encounter this morning that I found a little unpleasant. A woman lost her watch. And because I was the last person in the place, she kept looking at me and asking me whether I had seen her watch. I was generally unconcerned until something in me told me that she was accusing me without saying it. I noticed that she did not ask her 2 make companions about it, given that they also stayed in the same room with 12 other people including me. Anyway, I told her to go look again, or wake the hospitaleros up and ask if it had been handed in. She was so consumed with her problems and kept asking me questions – as if I would know. She comes bounding down later so happy that she’d found her watch and walks off. Meanwhile, she’d disrupted my packing and I’d left my clothes pegs behind. I then became worried I might have left my trousers and so I turned back after a km or so to check.

Now you’d think clothes pegs aren’t important. But when you have so few possessions, clothes pegs ensure you don’t lose your clothes by it being blown to the ground or completely away.

Today I did a bit of a detour to visit the Eunate church. There were no pilgrims this morning, I got a beautiful stamp on my credencial. I have only taken stamps at albergues. Think I ought to collect more stamps at sights of interest. Admittedly I’ve not stopped at many. The churches I have have been closed.

The book says a lot about Puenta La Reina. But the town did not appeal to me. There were a lot of tourists visiting the churches and I did not feel like I wanted to be among them. Instead I walked out to Cirauqui which is what I had wanted. Cirauqui reminded me of the medieval city St Emilion in France.

Wheat fields just outside Cirauqui. on the left is a walled cemetery.

I am glad I stopped here. The only albergue in town is clean, the wifi very good and dinner excellent. The town is a medieval town set within city walls. I’m glad I’m finding time to be in the remote towns. I think there’s a bit more personality and you feel the generosity of the hosts. Besides, it’s nice to hear church bells ringing.

There are people doing 30 / 40 km a day. They call me tortoise. But I say I stop often to look after my feet. After what happened to my friend, your camino can end quickly and suddenly. Every 2 hours or so, I stop, remove my socks and air my feet. I spoke to the host and she said she sees a lot of people coming in with knee injury and aches because they’ve been pushing themselves hard.  To each their own. 

I have lost the group I started out from Orisson. We are scattered along the camino. But I have met so many new people as well. Tomorrow, I hope to get to Villamayor.

Pictures are a thousand words

Santa Maria Eunate. church of 100 doors. Octagonal and believed to have Islamic influence from Jersalem. Built in 1170.


Pilgrim Sculpture at Obanos


An “i was here” momento left by pilgrins aling a fence near a highway to Puenta La Reina.

Beatiful vista framed by blossoms and barley flowers.